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136 HISTORY OF LACE. by the clergy, as were the “ hennins,” in the time of Charles VI.; l fioo^T m ° St probabIe stor J r is tbat "bich relates how in October lbJ9 Lome XIV. simply observed, “Cette coiffure lui paroissoit desagreable.” The ladies worked all night, and next evening, at the Duchess of Burgundy’s reception, 21 appeared for the first time m a low head-dress. Fashion, 22 which the author of the before quoted Consolation ” would call “ pompeux,” was “ auiourd’hui en reforme.” Louis XIV. never appreciated the sacrifice; to the ay of his death he persisted in saying, “ J’ai eu beau crier contre es coiffures trop hautes.” No one showed the slightest desire to lower them till one day there arrived “ une inconnue, une guenille d Angleterre” (Lady Sandwich, the English ambassadress!!), ‘avec une petite coiffure basse—tout d’un coup, toutes les princesses vont d’une extremito a l’autre.” 23 Be the accusation true °r not, the “Mercure” of November 1699 announces that £ la hauteur des anciennes coiffures commence a paroitre ridicule.” In these days lace was not confined to Versailles and the court. 24 “ Le gentilhomme,” writes Capefigue, “ allait au feu en man- chettes poudre a la marechale, les eaux de senteur sur son mouchoir en point d’Angleterre, l’elegance n’a jamais fait tort au courage, et la politesse s’allie noblement a la bravoure.” And Capefi<me is right; for who rallied more nobly round the throne than did the I rench gallants of that luxurious century ? But war brings destruction to laces as well as finances, and, in 1690, the loyal and noble army was found, alas! in rags Then writes Dangeau: “M. de Castanaga, a qui M. de Maine et M. de Luxembourg^ avoient demande un passeport pour faire venir des dentelles a l’armee, a refuse le passeport, mais il a envoye des marchands qui ont porte pour dix mille ecus de dentelles, et apres quon les eut achetdes, les marchands s’en retournerent sans vouloir prendre d argent, disant qu’ils avoient cet ordre de M. de Castanaga.” “ J’avois une Steinekerque de Malines,” writes the Abbe de Choisy, who always dressed in female attire. We hear a great 21 “ Galerie (le 1’aneienne Cour.” 23 .1 c , , _ 22 “1699. Oct. Lo Vendredi 25, il y Princesse Palatine D ' cll0 ' S0 0rle f us > . , , ,, , ' , ’ u y X nnccase 1 aJatine, mere du Ed^erit.” eut grande todette chez Madame la « Speaking of the Iron MasCvoltairo Duchesse de Bourgogne ou l es damea writesHis greatest passion was for parurent pour la premiere f 01 s en linen of great fineness and for lace.”- coiffures d une forme nouvelle, e’est k dire Siecle de Louis XIV. beaucoup plus basses.”—Mercure Galani.