Volltext Seite (XML)
182 HISTORY OP LACE. A second manufactory was established by the Comte de Marsan, 4 in Paris, towards the end of the same century. Having brought over from Brussels his nurse, named Dumont, with her four daughters, she asked him, as a reward for the care she had bestowed upon him in his infancy, to obtain for her the privilege of setting up in Paris a manufactory of point de France. Colhert granted the request: Dumont was established in the Faubourg Saint-Antoine—classic land of embroidery from early times—cited in the “ Revolte des Passemens —“ Telle Broderie qui n’avoit jamais este plus loin que du Faubourg S.-Antoine au Louvre.” A “ cent Suisse ” of the king’s was appointed as guard before the door of her house. In a short time Dumont had collected more than 200 girls, among whom were several of good birth, and made beautiful lace called “ point de France.” Her manufactory was next transferred to the Rue Saint-Sauveur, and subsequently to the Hotel Saint-Chaumont, near the Porte Saint-Denis. Dumont afterwards went to Portugal, leaving her establishment under the direction of Mademoiselle de Marsan. But, adds the historian, as fashion and taste often change in France, people became tired of this point. It proved difficult to wash; the flowers had to be raised each time it was cleaned; it was thick and unbecoming to the face. Points d’Espagne were now made instead, with small flowers, which, being very fine, was more suitable for a lady’s dress. Lastly, the taste for Mechlin lace coming in, the manu facture of Dumont was entirely given up. 5 In the time of Louis XIY. the commerce of lace was distributed in different localities of Paris, as we learn from the “Livre Commode,” 6 already quoted. The gold laces, forming of them selves a special commerce, had their shops in the “ rue des Bour- donnais and the rue Sainte-Honore, entre la place aux Chats et les piliers des Hailes,” while the Rue Betizy retained for itself the specialite of selling “ points et dentelles.” The gold and silver laces of Paris, commonly known as points d’Espagne, 7 often embellished with pearls and other ornaments, 4 Youngest son of the Comte d’Har- court. 5 “ Vie de J.-Bap. Colbert.” (Printed in the “ Archives curieuses.”) 6 “ Livre Commode ou les Adresses de la Ville de Paris,” for 1092. 7 For the introduction of the gold point of Spain into France, see Spain, p. 80. The manufacture of gold lace in Paris was, however, prior to Colbert. “ 1732. Un bord de Point d’Espagne d’or de Paris, a fonds de re'scau.”—Gar- derobe de S. A. S. Mgr. le Due de Pen- thievre. Arch. Nat. K. K. 390-1.