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184 HISTORY OF LACE. at Chantilly an elderly lady, granddaughter of an old proprietor, who had in her possession one of the original pattern books of the fabric, with autograph letters of Marie-Antoinette, the I’rinccsse de Lamballe, and other ladies of the court, giving their orders and expressing their opinion on the laces produced. We find in the inventories of the last century, “ coeffure de cour de dentelle de soye noire,” “mantelet garni de dentelles noires,” a “ petite duchesse et une respectueuse,” and other “coeffes,” all of “dentelle de soye • Q noire. 3 White blonde appears more sparingly. The Duchesse de Duras has “ une paire de mancliettes a trois rangs, deux fichus et deux paires de sabots en blonde; ” 10 the latter to wear, probably, with her “ robe en singe.” Du Barry purchases more largely. 11 Fig. 86. Chantilly (reduced). From one of the order books, temp. Louis XVI. Fig. 86 is a specimen taken from the above-mentioned pattern book; the flowers and ground are of the same silk, the flowers worked “en grille,” or open stitch, instead of the compact tissue of the “ blondes mates ” of the Spanish style. This is essentially “ Chantilly lace.” Chantilly first created the black silk lace industry, and deservedly it retains her name, whether made there or in Calvados. Chantilly black lace has always been made of silk, but from its being a grenadine, not a shining silk, a so high a reputation the fabrics of Chantilly. 9 “ Inv. de deces de la Duchesse de Modene,” 1761. 10 “Inv.de deces du Due de Duras,” 1789. 11 “Une fraise a deux rangs de blonde tres-fine, grande hauteur, 120 1. “ Uno paire de sabots de la memo blonde, 84 1. “ Un fichu en colonette, la fraise garnie a deux rangs d’une tres-belle blonde fond d’Alenin, 120 1. “ Un pouff borde d’un plisse' de blonde tournante fond d’Aleii9on, a bouquets trcs-fins et des bouillons de meme blonde. ” This wonderful coiffure being finished with “ Un beau panache de quatre plumes coulours impe'rinles, 108 1.”