Volltext Seite (XML)
GERMANY (NORTH AND SOUTH). 233 A large colony settled at Halle, where they made “ Hun garian” lace—“point de Iiongrie,” 27 a term more generally applied to a stitch in tapestry. 28 The word, however, does occasion ally occur:— “ Your Hungerland 29 bands and Spanish quellio ruffs, Great Lords and Ladies feasted to survey.” 39 Fynes Moryson expresses surprise at the simplicity of the German costume—ruffs of coarse cloth, made at home. The Dantzickers, however, he adds, dress more richly. “ Citizens daughters of an inferior sort wear their hair woven with lace stitched up with a border of pearl. Citizens’ wives wear much lace of silk on their petticoats.” Dandyism began in Germany, says a writer, 31 about 1626, when the women first wore silver, which appeared very remarkable, and “at last indeed which lace. A century later luxury at the baths of Baden had reached an excess unparalleled in the present day. The bath mantles, “ equipage de bain,” of both sexes are described as trimmed with the richest point, and after the batli were spread out ostentatiously as a show on the baths before the windows of the rooms. Lords and ladies, princesses and margraves, loitered up and down, passing judgment on the laces of each new arrival. This love of dress, in some cases, extended too far, for Bishop Douglas 33 mentions how the Leipzig students “think it more honourable to beg, with a sword by their side, of all they meet than to gain their livelihood. I have often,” he says, “ given a few groschen to one finely powdered and dressed with sword and lace ruffles.” Concerning the manufactures of the once opulent cities of Nuremberg and Augsburg, we have no record. In the first-men tioned was published, in 1601, the model book, engraved on 27 “ La France Protestante, par M. M. Haag,” Paris, 184G-59. 28 “ Item. Dix carrez de tapisserye a poinctz de Hongrye d’or, d’argent et soye de dift'erends patrons.”—live, apres le deces dii Mare'chal de MariUac, 1632. Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 11,424. 29 Hungary was so styled in the seven teenth century. In a “ Relation of the most famous Kingdoms and Common Weales through the World,” London, 1608, we find “ Hungerland.” 30 “ City Madam,” Massinger. 31 “Pictures of German Life, in the Fifteenth, Sixteenth, and Seventeenth Centuries,” by Gustaf Freytag. 32 “]VXerveilleux Amusements des Bains de Bade,” Londres, 1739. 33 Bishop of Salisbury, “ Letters,” 1748-9.