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QUEEN ELIZABETH. 271 nation, and maker of purled lace the other, the before-mentioned “ Callys de Hove, of Burgundy.” 41 Various acts 42 were issued during the reign of Elizabeth in order to suppress the inordinate use of apparel. That of May 1562, 43 though corrected by Cecil himself, less summary than that framed against the “ whitework ” of the apprentice boys, was of little or no avail. In 1568, a complaint was made to the queen against the frauds practised by the “16 appointed waiters,” in reference to the im portation of haberdashery, &c., by which it appears that her majesty was a loser of “ 5 or 600Z. by yere at least ” in the customs on “ parsement, cap rebone bone lace, cheyne lace,” &c., 44 but with what effect we know not. The annual import of these articles is therein stated at lt>,000Z., an enormous increase since the year 1559, when, among the “ necessary and unnecessary wares ” brought into the port of London, 45 together with “ babies ” (dolls), “ glasses to looke in,” “ glasses to drinke in,” “pottes,” gingerbread, cabbages, and other matters, we find enumerated, “ Laces of all sortes, 7751. 6s. 8d.,” just one-half less than the more necessary, though less refined, item of “ eles fresh and salt.” 46 1573, Elizabeth again endeavoured to suppress “the silk glittering with silver and gold lace,” but in vain. The queen was a great lover of foreign novelties. All will call to mind how she overhauled the French finery of poor Mary Stuart 47 on its way to her prison, purloining and selecting for her own use any new-fashioned article she craved. We even find Cecil, on the sly, penning a letter to Sir Henry Norris, her Majesty’s envoy to the court of France, “ that the Queen’s Majesty would fain have a tailor that has skill to make her apparel both after the French and Italian manner, and she thinketh you might use some means to obtain such one as suiteth the Queen without mentioning 41 See p. 222, note 13 . “ The natural ised French residing in this country are Normans of the district of Caux, a wicked sort of French, worse than all the English,” writes, in 1553, Stephen Por- lin, a French ecclesiastic, in his “ De scription of England and Scotland.” 42 “1559. Oct. 20. Proclamation against excess of apparel.'’—State Papers, Dom. Eliz. vol. vii. 1566. Feb. 12. Ibid. vol. xxxix. 1579. Star Chamber on apparel. 43 “ State Papers, Dom.” Eliz. vol. xxiii. No 8. 44 Ibid. vol. xlvii. No. 49. 45 Ibid. vol. viii. No. 31. 46 The value of thread imported amounts to 13,6711. 13s. id. 41 Walsingham writes:—“ In opening a coffer of the Queen of Scots, he found cer tain heades which so pleased certain ladies of his acquaintance, he had taken the liberty to detain a couple.”