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312 HISTORY OF LACE. had but four fine laced Brussels heads, two loopt and two grounded, two extremely fine point ones, with ruffles and lappets, six French caps and ruffles. 55 Two point lace cravats were considered as a full supply for any gentleman. Even young extravagant Lord Bedford, who, at eighteen years of age, found he could not spend less than 6000Z. a year at Bome, when on the grand tour, only charges his mother, Rachel Lady Russell, with that number. 56 The high commode, 57 with its lace rising tier upon tier, which made the wits about town declare the ladies “ carried Bow steeple upon their heads, ” of a sudden collapsed in Queen Anne’s reign. It had shot up to a most extravagant height, “ insomuch that the female part of our species were much taller than the men. We appeared,” says the “Spectator,” 58 “as grasshoppers before them.” 59 In 1711, Anne forbade the entry of gold and silver lace, 60 of which the consumption had become most preposterous, 61 under pain of forfeiture and the fine of 100Z. Ladies wore even cherry- coloured stays trimmed with the forbidden fabric. 62 The point of Spain had the preference over thread lace for state garments, heads and ruffles excepted; and as late as 1763, when the Dowager Lady Effingham was robbed of her coronation robes, among the wonderful finery detailed there is no mention of thread lace. The commerce of Flanders, notwithstanding the French taste, seemed now on a comfortable footing. “ The Flanderkins, ’’writes the “ British Merchant, ” in 1713, “ are gone off from wool, which we have got, to lace and linen. ... We have learned better, I hope, by our unsuccessful attempt to prohibit the Flanders laces, which made the Flemings retaliate upon us, and lessened our 55 “ Letters of the Countess of Hartford to the Countess of Pomfret,” 1740. 36 “ Memoirs of Lady R. Russell.” 57 “ My high commode, my damask gown, My laced shoes of Spanish leather.” D’Urfey, The Young Maid's Portion. 38 No. 98, 1711. 39 After fifteen years’ discontinuance it shot up again. Swift, on meeting the Duchess of (jrafton, dining at Sir Thomas llanmer’s, thus attired, declared site “ looked liked a mad woman.” 90 Statutes at large. 61 In 1712, Mrs. Beale had stolen from her “a green silk knit waistcoat with gold and silver flowers all over it, and about 14 yards of gold and silver thick lace on it;” while another lady was robbed of ‘‘ a scarlet cloth coat so overlaid with the same lace, it might have been of any otiier colour.”—Malcolm’s Anecdotes of the Manners and Customs of London in the Eighteenth Century. 62 “ Post Boy,” Nov. 15, 1709. Ar ticles Lost.