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26 HISTORY OF LACE. to all laces without grounds of which the various patterns are united by brides ; 14 the term is also applied to the bold flowing patterns of Flanders and Italy, united by a coarse reseau ground, and indeed is almost indefinitely amplified. Lace consists of two parts, the ground and the flower, pattern, or “ gimp.” The older laces, points, and guipures, are not worked upon a network ground; the flowers are connected by irregular threads overcast with button-hole stitch, and sometimes fringed with loops or knots, styled “ thorns ” ; in Italian, “ punti a spina.” These uniting threads are called by our lace-makers “pearl ties”— Handle Holme 15 styles them “ cockscombs ”—the Italians “ legs,” the French “ barrettes ” or “ bridesthe latter term is that now universally adopted. To express the honeycomb or network ground, we likewise use the French term “reseau.” It is also called “fond,” “champ,” “ treille,” and sometimes “ entoilage,” on account of its containing the “ toile ” flower or ornament so styled from its flat, close texture resembling linen, and also from its being often made of that material, or of muslin. 16 The flower, or ornamental pattern, is either made together with the ground, as in Valenciennes or Mechlin, or separately, and then either worked in or sewn on (applique.) The open-work stitches introduced into the pattern are called “modes,” “jours by our Devonshire workers, “fillings.” All lace is terminated by two edges, the “ pearl,” “ picot,” 17 or “ couronne,”—a row of little points at equal distances, and the “ footing ” or “ engrelure,”—a narrow lace, which serves to keep the stitches of the ground firm, and to sew the lace to the garment upon which it is to be worn. Lace is divided into two distinct classes, point and pillow. The first is made by the needle on a parchment pattern, and termed “ needle point,” “ point a l’aiguille,” “ punto in aco.” 14 In an inventory of the church of the Oratoire, at Paris,of the seventeenth century, are veils for the host: one, “ de taffetas blanc garny d’une guipurethe other, “ do satin blanc ii fleurs, avec une dcntello de guipure.” Bib. Nat. MSS. F. Fr. 8621. 15 “Store-house of Armory and Bla- son,” 1688. is «<3 r i]ie,” “ grillage,” is another term applied to the flowers, but distinguished from toile by having little square spaces between the thread (“grille,” grating), the work not being so compact as the toile. 17 “ Une robe et tablier, gamis d’une dontello d’Angleterre a picot.”—Inv. de deces de la Duehesse de Bourbon. Arch. Nat. X. 10,064.