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374 HISTORY OF LACE. lesquelles y ha un lyon assailant nn sanglier with fifty-two fishes, all of clivers sorts—giving good proofs of the poor prisoner’s industry. As to the designs after nature, with all respect to the memory of Queen Mary, the lions, cocks, and fishes of the six teenth century which have come under our notice require a student of mediaeval needlework, rather than a naturalist, to pro nounce upon their identity. James VI. of Scotland, reared in a hotbed of Calvinism, had not the means, even if he had the inclination, to indulge in much luxury in dress. Certain necessary entries of “ braid pasmentis ” of gold, “ gold clinquant,” “ braid pasmentis,” “ cramoisi,” for the ornamenting of “ clokkis,” “ coittis,” “ breikis,” and “roobes ” of the king, with “ Twa unce and ane half pasmentis of gold and silver to werk the headis of the fokkis,” make up the amount of expense sanctioned for the royal wedding ; 21 while “ 31 ells braid pasmentis ” of gold to trim a robe for “his Majesties darrest bedfellow the Quene for her coronation,” 22 gives but a poor idea of the luxury of the Scottish court. Various enactments 23 were passed during the reign of James VI. against “ unnecessary sumptuousness in men’s apparel,” by which no one except noblemen, lords of session, prelates, &c. were allowed to wear silver or gold lace. Provosts were permitted to wear silk, but no “lace pearlin’’ or “pasmenterie,” only a “ watling silk lace ” on the seams. 24 No one but the above same privileged persons were to have pearlin on their ruffles, “ sarkis,” napkins, and “ sokkis,” and that pearlin to be made in the kingdom of Scotland. This act, dated 1621, is the first mention we have found of Scottish-made lace. James VI. having granted to one James Bannatyne of Leith a patent for the “ importing of foraine pearlin ” into the country, in consequence of great complaint of the embroiderers in 1639, this patent is rescinded, and the king forbids the entry of all “ foraine pearlin.” The word lace does not exist in the Scotch language. “ Pearlin ” is the term used in old documents, defined in the dictionaries to 21 “ Marriage Expenses of James VI., 1589.” Published by the Bannatyne Club. 22 “ Accounts of the Great Chamber- lain of Scotland, 1590.” Bannatyne Club. 23 In 1581, 1597, and 1621. 24 The same privilege was extended to their wives, their eldest sons with their wives, and their eldest daughters, but not to the younger children.