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IRELAND. 389 fangled pair of Gally-cushes,” i. e. English shirts, as we find by the Corporation Book of Kilkenny (1573), eighteenpence was charged if done with silk or outwork. Ninepence extra was charged for every ounce of silk worked in. An Irish smock wrought with silk and gold was considered an object worthy of a king’s wardrobe, as the inventory of King Edward IV. 6 attests:—“ Item, one Irishe smocke wrought with gold and silke.” The Rebellion at an end, a friendly intercourse, as regards fashion, was kept up between the English and the Irish. The ruff of geometric design, falling hand, and cravat of Flanders lace, all appeared in due succession. The Irish, always lovers of pomp and show, early used lace at the interments of the great, as appears from an anecdote related in a letter of Mr. O’Halloran :—“ The late Lord Glandore told me,” he writes, “ that when a boy, under a spacious tomb in the ruined monastery at his seat, Ardfert Abbey (Co. Kerry), he perceived something white. He drew it forth, and it proved to be a shroud of Flanders lace, the covering of some person long since deceased.” In the beginning of the eighteenth century a patriotic feeling arose among the Irish, who joined hand in hand to encourage the productions of their own country. Swift was among the first to support the movement, and in a prologue he composed, in 1721, to a play acted for the benefit of the Irish weavers, he says:— “ Since waiting-women, like exacting jades, Hold up the prices of their old brocades, We’ll dress in manufactures made at home.” Shortly afterwards, at a meeting, he proposed the following resolution:— “ That the ladies wear Irish manufactures. There is brought annually into this kingdom near 90,000?. worth of silk, whereof the greater part is manufactured; 30,000?. more is expended in muslin, liolland, cambric, and calico. What the price of lace amounts to is not easy to be collected from the custom-house book, being a kind of goods that, taking up little room, is easily run; but, considering the prodigious price of a woman’s head dress at ten, twelve, twenty pounds a yard, it must be very great.” kerchor, bendel, neckerchour, mocket, or linen in their shirts or smocks. linen cappe colored or dyed with saffron,” 5 1 Edw. TV. Harl. MSS. No. 1419. and not to use more than seven yards of b.-g. 494.