Volltext Seite (XML)
152 HISTOHY OF LACE. coups perfides ” and “ venez-y-voir ” in emeralds. Her hair “ en sentiments soutenus,” with a cap of “ conquete assuree,” trimmed with ribbons of “ ceil abattua “ chat 6 sur le col,” the colour of “ gueux nouvellement arrive,” and upon her shoulders a Medicis “ en bienseance,” and her muff of “ agitation momentanee.” In the accounts of Mademoiselle Bertin, the queen’s milliner, known for her saying, “ II n’y a rien de nouveau dans ce monde que ce qui est oublie,” we have little mention of lace. 7 “ Blond a fond d’Alenfon seme a poix, a mouches,” now usurps the place of the old points. Even one of the “ grandes dames de la vieille cour,” Madame Adelaide de France herself, is represented in her picture by Madame Guiard with a spotted handkerchief, probably of blonde (Fig. 77). The church alone protects the ancient fabrics. The lace of the Bolian family, almost hereditary prince-arclibishops of Strasburg, was of inestimable value. “ We met,” writes the Baroness de Oberkirch, “ the cardinal coming out of his chapel dressed in a soutane of scarlet moire and rochet of English lace of inestimable value. When on great occasions he officiates at Versailles, he wears an alb of old lace ‘en point a l’aiguille,’ of such beauty that his assistants were almost afraid to touch it. His arms and device are worked in a medallion above the large flowers. This alb is estimated at 100,000 livres. On the day of which I speak he wore the rochet of English lace, one of his least beautiful, as his secretary, the Abbe Georget, told me.” 8 On his elevation to the see of Bourges, 1859, Monseigneur de La Tour d’Auvergne celebrated mass at Home arrayed with all the sacerdotal ornaments of point d’Alenqon of the finest workman ship. This lace descended to him from his uncle, Cardinal de La Tour d’Auvergne, who had inherited them from his mother, Madame d’Aumale, so well known as the friend of Madame Maintenon. Under the first empire a complete suit of lace was offered to the 6 “Souvenirs du Marquis (le Vulfons, 1710-1786. A “chat,” tippet or palatine; so named after the mother of the regent. 7 In the National Archives, formerly preserved with tiro “Livre llouge,” in the Armoire de Fer, is the “Gazette pour l’anne 1782,” of Marie-Antoinette, consisting of a list of the dresses furnished for the queen during the year, drawn up try the Cointesse d’Ossune, her “dame des atours.” We find—“ grands habits, robes sur le grand panier, lobes sur le petit panier,” with a pattern of the mate rial affixed to eacli entry, and the name of the “ couturiere ” who made the dress. One “ Le'vite ” alone appears trimmed witli blonde. There is also the Gazette of Madame Elizabeth, for 1792. 8 ‘‘ Memoires sur la Cour de Louis xvr.’