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168 HISTORY OF LACE. Point d’Alenpon is of a solidity which defies time and washing, and has been justly called the Queen of Lace. It is the only lace in which horsehair is introduced along the edge, to give firmness and consistency to the cordonnet, rendered perhaps necessary to make the point stand up when exposed to wind, mounted on the towering fabrics then worn by the ladies. The objection to horse hair is that it shrinks in washing, and draws up the flower from the ground. In 1761, a writer, describing the point de France, says that it does not arrive at the taste and delicacy of Brussels, its chief defect consisting in the thickness of the cordonnet, which thickens when put into water. The horsehair edge also draws up .the ground, and makes the lace rigid and heavy. He likewise finds fault with the “ modes,” or fancy stitches of Alenfon, and states that much point is sent from there to Brussels to have the modes added, thereby giving it a borrowed beauty, but connois seurs, he adds, easily detect the difference. 11 When the points of Alenpon and Argentan dropped the general designation of “ points de France ” is difficult to say. Probably at the expiration of the privilege, each manufacture began to adopt its own name. The last inventory in which we have found mention of “ point de France” is one of 1723, 12 while point d’Argentan is noted in 1738, 13 and point d’Alenfon in 1741, where it is specified to be “ a reseau.” 14 In the accounts of Madame du Barry, no point d’Alenjon is mentioned—always point a l’aiguille—and “ needle point ” is the name by which point d’Alenfon was alone known in England during the last century. The purchases of needle point of Madame du Barry were most extensive. Sleeves (engageantes) and lappets for 84U0 livres; court ruffies at 1100; a mantelet at 2400; a veste at 6500; a grande coeffe, 1400; a garniture, 6010, &c. 15 Coloured Plate VIII. represents a beautiful lappet which, in her former edition, the Author has placed under Genoa, as it was sent 11 “ Dictionnaire du Citoyen,” Paris, 1761. 12 “ Inv. de Madame Anne Palatine, Princesse de Conde.” See p. 131. 13 In the inventory of the Due de Pen- thievre, 1738. See p. 143. 14 “ Une coiffure de point d’Alemjona raiseau.”—Inv. de deces de Mademoiselle de Clermont, 1741. Again, 1743, Inv. de la Buchesse de Bourbon. Bill. Nat. 15 Among the objects of religious art exhibited in 1864, at the General Assem bly of the Catholics of Belgium, at Malines, was a “voile de be'nediction,” the handkerchief used to cover the ciborium, of point d’Alen§on, with figures of the Virgin, St. Catherine, St. Ursula, and St. Barbara. It belonged to the church of St. Christopher at Charleroi.