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12 HISTORY OF LACE. The sums expended on the decoration of this most necessary article of dress sadly excited the wrath of Mr. Stubbs, who thus vents his indignation: “ These shirtes (sometymes it liappeneth) are wrought throughout with needlework of silke, and such like, and curiously stitched with open seame, and many other knackes besides, more than I can describe; in so much, I have heard of shirtes that have cost some ten sliillynges, some twenty, some forty, some five pounds, some twenty nobles, and (which is horrible to heare) some ten pound a pece.” 6 In the time of Henry VIII. the shirt was “pynclied” or plaited:— “ C.me nere with your shirtes bordered and displayed, In foarme of surplois.” 1 These, 8 with handkerchiefs, 9 sheet, and pillow-beres 10 (pillow cases), were embroidered with silks of various colours, until the fashion gradually gave place to outwork. 6 “ Anatomie of Abuses,” by Philip toile de Hollande, bordee au col et aux Stubbs 1583 inanclres d’ouvraige fort excellent.”— 7 “ The Shyp of Folysof the Worlde,” Godefroy, Le Ceremonial de France, translated out of Latin by Alex. Barclay, ltil 0. jgQg 0 See “France.” 8 The inventories of all nations abound 10 The pillow-bere has always been an in mention of these costly articles. Tl.e object of luxury, a custom not yet extinct “ smocks” of Katharine of Aragon, “for in France, where the “ taies d’oreiller, to lay in,” were wrought about the collar brodees aux armcs, and trimmed with a with gold and silk. Lord Monteagle, rich point, form au important feature in a 1523 had “two fine smocks of cambric modern trousseau. In the inventory of wrought with gold.” (Inv. P. R. O.) Margaret of Austria, the gentle governess Among the New Year’s gifts offered to of the Low Countries, are noted— Queen Mary Tudor (155G), we find a “ Quatre toyus d’oraillers ouvrees d’or smock wrought over with silk, and collar et de toye cramoysie et de verde. and ruffles of damask, gold purl, and “ Autres quutres toyes d’oraillers faites silver. Again, in the household expenses et ouvrees d’or et de soye bleu ii losanges of Marguerite de France, 1545, we find qui out estees donnecs a Madame par a charge of “ 4 livres 12 sols, pour une dom Diego de Cabrera.”—Corr. de TEm- garniture de chemise ouvre' de soye pereur Maximilian I" et de Marguerite cramoisie pour nradicte dame” (Bib. dAutriche, par ill. Peglay; I’aiis, 1833. Nat. MSS. Fonds Franrjais, 10,394). Edward VI. has (Ilarl. MSS. 1419) About the same date (G. W. A. liliz. 1 “ 18 pillow-beres of hollande with brode & 2,1558-59) appear charges for “ length- scums of silk of sundry coloured needle, ening one smocke of drawne work, 20s. work.” And again, “ One pillow-bere Six white smocks edged with white of line hollande wrought with a brode needlework lace, 10s. To overcasting seam of Venice gold and silver, and aud edging 4 smockes of drawne work silk nedlework.” with ruffs, wristbands, and collars, three And, Lady Zouclie presents Quer n of them with black work, and three of Elizabeth, as a New Year’s gift, with them with red,” &c. At the funeral of “ One pair of pillow-bcares of Holland Henry II. of France, 1559, the effigy was work, wrought with black silk drawne described as attired in “ une chemise do work.”—Nichols’ Royal Progresses.